The Christmas dress

 

I hope you're all having a happy holiday! I've been staying at my mother's in Stockholm, celebrating Christmas the swedish way (traditional swedish food and hanging out with the family on Christmas eve). Also, there's been the usual running around Stockholm to meet up with everyone... =)

Last year I bought 2 metres of jersey and 2 metres of lace and figured I'd make it into a Christmas dress for this year. I came close to stumbling on the finish line here... I started drafting the jersey on Friday evening the 20th, sewed the jersey on Saturday morning, drafted and toiled the lace on the afternoon/evening. Sunday I packed for Christmas and sewed the lace-dress.

The bottom layer is a plain jersey dress, without sleeves. The top layer is more interesting - it's lace cut on bias. The lace has no stretch on it's own, but it's a loose weave lace, so it has some natural stretch due to that. But as I didn't want to join the two layers, I also didn't want the opening a waistseam would require. This was my solution:

A bias cut diamond shape in the side. I first got this idea from one of the dresses in the Hollywood exhibition at Albert & Victoria museum in London last year. I'm not sure how period accurate it is, but they did use paneling during the early 30s.

The front was also a new to me: I made a high cowl neck, with the bodice pleated to a midriff piece.

The skirt is my by now trusty bias A-line pattern. The back is also cut on the bias.
One of the trickiest part was figuring out the pattern layout, so that the weave strength on both sides of all seams matched each other.

This was a really fun project, and I'm thrilled I managed to get it done in such a short time!

Happy holidays!
Love, Erika

A dress for blues dancing

A dance night that comes only once every 6th month is a special event, right? And it’s made to feel even more special with something new, special to wear! =)

As per usual my carefully laid sewing plans this fall went straight to… *erhm* They didn’t work out as I had planned. Or at all. That meant my grand vision that included a gorgeous rayon, matching chiffon with embroidery and sequins, and of course a smashing 30s silhouette, that vision had to be put on hold for a later date if I wanted a finished dress to wear to the dance instead of just an idea. So what to do instead?

I wavered between the three drawings to the left above, but even though I decided for the one to the farthest left, it was never a “Yay! I’m going to love this dress!”. At first I tried to ignore it and stick to my chosen path, but as I picked out the jersey I bought in London last year (intended for a bluesdress) and the pattern pieces, a new dress just seemed to grow out of what was in front of me. The result was the dress on the right, minus the split (when test-dancing the dress, I realised I didn't need the split).

Ever had that happen; that a project seems to change itself, and take an ok idea to something totally different? The end result was a lot more suited to the occasion, to the fabric and to what I really really deep deep down wanted. It’s strange what can come out of being true to one’s gut feeling and just follow the intuition. I’m not sure I can say I drafted this dress, it more or less drafted itself.

The entire front bodice got an overlay of lace, pleated to the neckline. The skirt was cut (on-grain) from my bias 30s skirt pattern, so made long + slim. Sleeves also got a cover of lace.

The best is the back! Covered with lace, the jersey beneth dives into a deep V. This is a style I’ve dreamed of wearing, forever! But with my bust, skipping the bra just isn’t an option. However, when I realized the Glamour Corselette I also got in London would be ideal under the thin jersey skirt, my mind raced to the conclusion “Holy Moses, I can make a deep back!”. As a deep back isn’t ideal when dancing - the lead’s hand goes right over there, and as I’ve discovered myself when leading followers wearing tank tops with spaggetti-straps, it really is a much more pleasant experience to have some fabric between hand and back – I kept the full lace back, and just cut out the jersey.

Due to the cut out back, my slips wouldn't work, so I made a lining from knit stretch lining.

Dress inside-out with the back lining visible...

...and the front.

Did I lose something with this change of plans? Yes and no. The original jersey dress would have been an allround Little Back Dress, usuable for many occasions, from dancing to dinner parties. The dress that I ended up making is a pure Blues Dance Dress (ok, I may wear it for New Years Eve as well ; ) ). However, a multi-purpose allround LBD wasn't really what I desired deep down. I wanted a dress that walked the narrow line between classy, but not "funeral". Elegant and simple, but interesting. Sensual, but not sexy nor slutty. A bit like blues dancing =)
Also, from a more practical point of view, this jersey isn't of a very high quality and I fear it wouldn't make it long as a much-in-use allround LBD...

 And I did my first attempt on fingerwaves!!! The rest of the hair is brushed through and pinned up in a faux bob.

The dress was fantastic to dance in, and we had a wonderful Blues Dance Night! Above is me and my sister Kajsa during clean-up after the dance. We didn't coordinate or anything, but I love how our outfits matched with black jerseys, textured bodices, matt skirts and long-ish sleeves =)

All for now!
Love, Erika

Completed: two 30's outfits!

Inspired by my love for the 30s look, my realisation that maybe I've been avoiding the 30s for all the wrong reasons, and of course all the lovely comments from you guys on whether I should try it, I decided before summer to make a 30s summer outfit with a skirt and a blouse. "Summer?", you may be wondering, "but Erika, it's fall now!"
I know, I know! But... well, I didn't get done in time... and the skirt fought back... and somehow I ended up making a second skirt + top outfit...

Alright, outfit number one:

A bias cut A-line skirt with side-buttons, and a blouse with a tie-collar and snaps in the side. The skirt is in a lovely faric, it's matka silk! Matka is a plain weave with double strands in both warp and weft. The fabric is coarse and has a lot of body, but at the same time it has a slight slight lustre that's too polite to be called a shine, and even though it has body, it still has some drape. Wonderful!

So how did the skirt fight back? Basically, it was the fabric. When I bought it they said it could be machine washed, but even after a gentle wash with silk-detergent it came out stiff as cardboard. After a good rinse with fabric softener (worked better than vineger, tried both on test squares. And yes, of course I should have machine washed a test square as well...) and ironing it dry, it regained some softness and drape. I'd seriously recommend against machine washing matka, no matter what the salespeople say!

The skirt closes in the side with buttons and handmade buttonholes.

The skirt sits in my natural waist and the waistband is straight, folded. I lenghtened it considerably after looking at old fashion- and pattern magazines, and measuring the few 30s pattern I own, so it hits just below mid-calf.

The blouse is made from leftovers from last year's big dress+jacket project. I used a combination of different patterns I've made before, it took a couple of toilles, and the fit is still a bit off. I have two major issues I need to adress before making it again, first is the bubbliness at the front, second is the excess in the peplum. 30s peplum laid very slim and close to the hips, while the bodice bloused against the waist (opposite that of 50s peplum blouses/dresses). I love the style, though! So easy to wear, cool and soft, not restricting the movement at all, yet with a feeling of elegance.

The blouse closes in the side with snaps.

Second outfit!
 

Remeber the jerseydress I showed you in the last post? I loved that fabric so much I went back for another 1,5 metre! I had already found a nice linen on a 50% sale, so I figured it would be great to have a 30s outfit that's easier to wash and iron. Hence a linen skirt and a jersey top!

The skirt is tea-dyed (I bought it as a bleached white) and cut on the bias. However, since the first skirt has a tendency to pull a little over the hips I figured it would be better with a bit more room in the skirt and made it just a few cm wider. Unfortunatly, it didn't make the sideseam lay flat, quite the opposite...

Another part in the problem may be that I was a little bit short on fabric, and did a "design feature" at the top. It might be a coincidence that the skirt pulls the most just below the "V", but I doubt it.

Also, the zipper buggled. This is the third installation, and I've done all I can think of. I'm leaving it be, it's time for fall sewing and either the fabric will shrink a little during washing, or I'll wear something over the top of the skirt, or... It's a later problem =)

The top is a version of my by now TNT jerseydress pattern, not much to say about it.

Except that I love the fit in the back!!! With my narrow back, nothing RTW has ever fit and I still get a little giddy everytime I see myself wearing a garment that fits my back =)

This is just a short presentation, I'll be returning soon with some thoughts on drafting patterns that are based on a specific period, and of course a bit more about the silk skirt. It was an epic make ; )

Love, Erika

Inspiration: Swedish 30s pattern magazines

I've recently been on a bit of a shopping spree for 30s inspiration... Pattern magazines can be quite expensive here, but I've managed to score a few on Tradera/Ebay anyway. Here's my small but growing collection...

I love that some of the magazines came with pattern sheets! Although they make modern Burda magazines look like a walk in the park:

Basically, I just wanted to share some of my favorites with you =) Wanna see them? Here they are:

1932

1935

The text reads "A practical vacation dress"

1936

I'll def post more about these magazines over time, they have an abundant of interesting tidbits in them!

Love, Erika

30s ensamble: I did it! Sort of...

So, I had this grand plan to make a dress and jacket in 7 weeks, during which I'd be travelling at least 3. I got inspired by some pretty fabric, and I desperetly wanted to make a 30s outfit to wear to a friends wedding. I made it! Sort of... I didn't have time to line the jacket but as long as we don't tell anyone it doesn't matter, right? (So why did I go around and show this to my sewing-friends at the weddding?! Or admitting this to the world on the blog?! Hmm... not so smart, perhaps ; ) ) In the last minute, I just basted the facing hem and sewed on the buttons, it worked for the day, but I will of course make it properly now after the wedding.

Dress and jacket.

Just the dress, with the cute little 30s handbag I bought at Tradera.

The wedding was in an old chapel at Gammlia outdoors museum. In between the guided tour and waiting for the newlyweds to get back from the photoshoot, me and Linda, who generously helped me out with taking pictures (Thank you!) found a 40s boat in one of the few museum buildings at Gammlia. We had fun... =)

It was a wonderful day; a beautiful wedding, a delicious dinner and a fun party.

Congratulations, Johan and Amanda!

I'm glad I made the outfit, but was again reminded that me and deadlines don't go together very well. Esp when I set them up way too tight!

I you want to see details shots and read some construction notes, just click on the blogtitle...

Otherwise, thank you for reading this far =)
Love, Erika

A fabulous idea - or?

A fabric shop next door equals risks for spontanous "oh, I adore this fabric, what can I make from it? Oh, I know, I know! Wouldn't it be lovely for an ensamble for the wedding I'm attending in 1,5 months? I think it would...
I know it would!
I'd love to make it.
Of course I have time to make it.
I will make it or die trying!

Now, how did that happen, didn't I have anyting at all to wear already? Of course not, nothing really suitable!"

And that's the story of how I talked myself into sewing a dress+jacket ensamble... This is the fabric that started this whole process:

For this outfit I had a quite simple dress pattern in mind: combine my holksleeve blouse pattern (modified a bit, of course) with my A-skirt pattern and voilà, a dress! The jacket took some thinking though. The problem is that my absolute favorite era is the 30s, I adore the soft, feminine and elegant fashion of pre-WWII. My bodyshape is however more attuned to the New look of the late 40s/early 50s. And the set of  hips needed to wear up a New look-outfit is not at all flattering in a 30s dress...

So I made some necessary accomodations and came up with this:

I figured I want the polkadots in the bodice and the solid for the skirt. To it I want a 3/4 sleeve jacket with a shawl-collar. A bit like this one from Sears catalogs -36:

Now you're probebly wondering what on earth this sketch has to do with the 30s, but maybe it's a matter of small details to get the look I want? Check out these two patterns:

Link

 Link

Looking through Sears catalogues, patterns, photo's etc, to me it seems that most details can be seen in different decades (at least if I stick to my favorite period: 30s, 40s, 50s). Wide collars, small collars, shawl collars, v-neck, round neck. Princesslines, pleats, gathers, darts. Etc, etc... My point is that if it's not in the construction details, then where's the difference? 'Cause the difference is huge!

Maybe it's in the fabric and subtle changes in the cutting? For me the 30s appear more flowy and drape-y, while the 50s was more structured. Both feminine and lovely, but if you place a haute cotour gown from the early 50s on the floor, it stands on it own. A 30s gown would melt into a graceful puddle. Likewise, an A-line skirt in silk taffetea will instantly give a new look-feel, while a bias cut charmeuse A-line will bring the glamorous Hollywood starlet of the 30s to mind. What do you guys say; am I on to something?

So the question is: can I re-create the feeling of the drape and slim elegance of the 30s, while still make a garment that flatters my hourglass shape? I'm not after historic accuracy, only the feel of the 30s. Here's my plan to "thirtyfy" my patterns:
- Cut skirt on bias.
- Omit shoulder pads on jacket.
- Use a thin viscouse with lot's of drape.
- Don't tailor the jacket, only reinforce with knit fusible, maybe add a sew-in stabilizer for the collar.
- Gather the top of the jacketsleeves .

Can it be that simple? I have until August 4 to find out =)

Love, Erika